Who this is for
Brands and designers in the EU, UK, US, UAE and elsewhere who need production-ready patterns without hiring an in-house pattern maker. And brands whose current patterns cause problems: fit complaints, returns "too small", inconsistent sizes across a run.
Freelance pattern makers in Western markets are commonly quoted at $45–120 per hour, technical designers at $40–95 per hour (Dojo Business, rates as of October 2025). A single style can take many hours once you add fit rounds. I quote per style, so you know the cost before work starts.
Who I am
Irina Tsoi, Bishkek. Twenty years in the garment industry as a fashion designer and pattern maker: patterns, construction, materials, sewing technology, every production stage and quality control. Three years selling clothing on Wildberries, where I saw directly how a pattern error turns into returns.
Communication: in Russian; English via written messages. You send your brief, sketches and comments in English; I reply in writing with translation. Measurements and drawings are a shared language anyway.
What you get
- Base pattern for the style, built from your sketch, photo, sample or a reference garment.
- Seam allowances and markings for production: notches, grain lines, drill holes, labels on each piece.
- Grading across your size range, to your size chart or one we build together.
- Measurement chart of the finished garment by size, with tolerances, ready for your tech pack.
- Files in DXF, PLT or PDF.
- Fit corrections after your sample: you send photos or video of the sample on a model, I correct the pattern.
How it works
- Brief. Sketch or photos, fabric, size range, target fit, where it will be produced. If you have a sample, measurements or a reference garment, include them.
- Quote and timeline. I confirm price and delivery date in writing. You pay by card via Stripe.
- Pattern. I build the base size and send you the measurement chart to confirm.
- Sample. Your factory sews a sample. You send photos and video on a model, front, side and back.
- Corrections. I adjust the pattern and update the measurement chart.
- Grading and final files. You receive graded patterns in your format.
Grading: why it matters
Grading is where many brands lose money quietly. The base size fits, but the largest and smallest sizes don't, because increments were copied from a generic table instead of your customer. I grade to your size chart and check critical points: chest, waist, hip, armhole, sleeve length, neckline. If you don't have a chart, I'll propose one based on your market and product.
| Starting point | What I need | Accuracy |
|---|---|---|
| Physical sample | The garment posted to Bishkek | Highest |
| Existing pattern with problems | Files plus photos of the fit issue | High |
| Sketch plus reference garment | Sketch, reference measurements | High |
| Sketch or photos only | Sketch, fabric, target measurements | Needs one fit round |
Pattern corrections
If you already have patterns and the fit is wrong, I review them against photos of the garment on a model and your return reasons, find where the problem sits (balance, ease, armhole, rise, grading increments) and correct the files. Often this is cheaper than starting again.
Garments I work on
Women's, men's and children's clothing: dresses, skirts, trousers, shirts and blouses, jackets and coats, knitwear, hoodies and sweatshirts, co-ords, modest wear and plus-size ranges. For outerwear and tailored garments I also prepare lining and interlining patterns. For knitwear, ease and grading are calculated for the stretch of your actual fabric, so tell me the fabric before I start.
What makes a pattern production-ready
A pattern that works for one sample can still fail in a factory. Before I send files, I check:
- seam lengths match where pieces join, including curved seams and sleeve caps;
- notches line up and are placed where the factory needs them;
- allowances suit the seam type and the factory's machines;
- grain lines are correct for the fabric;
- every piece is labelled with style, size, piece name and quantity to cut.
This is what saves your factory time and saves you a second sample round.
Pricing
- Diagnosis of a pattern or fit problem from photos: $150.
- Pattern for one style: from $450, depending on complexity.
- Grading: from $150 per size range.
- Tech pack: $450.
Payment is by card via Stripe. The final price depends on the garment (a T-shirt and a lined coat are different jobs), the number of sizes, and whether we start from a sample. All prices are on the pricing page.
The files are yours. You can produce anywhere: in your current factory, in Europe, Turkey or Asia. If you want to produce in Bishkek, I can also find the factory and control the run: see garment manufacturing in Kyrgyzstan. For checking a finished run, see quality control.